Wool Quilt Instructions

Please read through all the instructions carefully. This is an improvised pattern so make adjustments according to your materials and the size you choose for your finished quilt. Feel free to substitute whatever patterns and colors suit you best!

I suggest you pre-wash all your fabrics. Different weight wools shrink at much different rates. If you intend to wash this quilt after it’s constructed, you want to make sure all the wool is pre-shrunk.

This quilt was produced to solve two key problems that come with sewing wool on a machine: Wool moves and grows under the presser foot and joined seams become too bulky!

Fabric needed to make a throw sized quilt:

  • 13/4 yard unbleached muslin or other stabilizing fabric
  • Wool A: any patterned wool (measurements to follow)
  • Wool B: any solid wool (measurements to follow)
  • 2 yards cotton, or wool for backing
  • 1/3 yard fabric for binding

1. Cut 5, 12.5″ x 48″ strips from unbleached muslin or other stabilizing fabric. You can piece these strips, if you want to make your quilt wider, but I just use selvedge-to-selvedge measurements for this, which are usually about 48″, depending on the original width of the muslin or other stabilizing fabric.

2. Arrange the strips, flat – on your design wall-table-floor -and, using a ruler, draw lines to form the shapes. Keep in mind that this will be the backside of the quilt: when you sew the wool to the stabilizing fabric, these will become you sewing lines. Work carefully to avoid overlapping seams. If more than seams meet, the wool gets retty thick and can get distorted. One of the principles behind this design, contrary to typical piecing, is that your seams will not meet. Make four larger trapezoid shapes for the patterned wool connected by a combination of parallegogram and smaller trapezoid combos for the solid woo.

3. With your first foundation strip face down, place a piece of Wool A completely covering the first larger trapezoid shape. Place a strip of Wool B, right sides together, on top of Wool A with a 1/4″ seam allowance extending over the first seam line. Pin. Flip the whole thing over and sew your first seam along that seam line.

* As is common with this “sew and flip” method of piecing, it is easy to cut the pieces too short. Check to make sure that once the pieces are sewn together, they will cover the entire foundation piece.

4. Fold the stabilizing strip away from the wool, along the seam line itself. Trim the wool fabric 1/4 past the fold, being careful to avoid cutting through the foundation fabric.

5. Gently press the seam open on the right side and square off the ends.

6. Position the next piece of Wool A along the edge of the piece of Wool B already sewn to the foundation strip. Pin.

7. Flip it over with the muslin side-up and sew along the seam line, removing the pins as you go.

8. Lightly press the seam open on the right side and square off the ends.

Continue on in the following manner, alternating Wool A and B in the appropriate spaces. Always check that your wool will cover the designated space after it’s been seamed and opened up before you cut!!!!! Again, the angle of the seam and the space the wool will cover after it’s sewn is counter intuitive and I frequently cut the wool too small for the space intended.

9. With the foundation strip facing up, fold back the muslin along the next fold line and trim the wool 1/4 inch past the fold.

10. Flip the strip over and line up the next piece of wool along the edge of the previous piece, right sides together, extending 1/4 inch past the fold line. Pin.

11. Flip over and, with the muslin side up, stitch along the seam line.

12. Open up the seam and lightly press and square off ends.

Repeat steps 9-12 along the entire foundation strip, trimming as you go.

13. When you’ve completed all five strips, square up the edges and sew them together.

14. Make the quilt sandwich and quilt. You probably won’t need batting. The wool, along with the foundation fabric and backing, is usually enough.